First strokes straight razor

How do you use a straight razor? The simple 8 step guide.

89 / 100
The thought of using straight razors can be scary. But don’t let that put you off, using a straight razor is a pretty simple. There is a reason using a straight razor is usually reserved for barbers and it comes down to the finished quality of the shave. Because of the angle and applied pressure, straight razors shave closer to the follicle, giving a smoother finish.
If you take the time to learn the form, you can give yourself the same shave at home,as well as be confident enough to try it. We suggest that you follow our steps below, and save yourself from playing with pain.

First up

You need to remember one thing. A straight razor shave takes longer. A lot more time than mechanical shavers or disposables. Quarter of an hour at least. You can not use it if you are not able to devote time to learning how to shave with this product. Straight-razor shaves differ from a traditional shave a fair bit and will require concentration, so let’s start.

How to use a straight razor

1. Getting ready

As with every shave, you need to soften the skin and open the pores, if it’s your first time, then you will need to prepare the skin properly to prevent nasty shaving rash. Jump in a hot shower or bath, softening the hair and making it easier to shave better. Wash your face with a mild face wash to remove grime and bacteria. Then apply a pre-shave oil to soften the skin.

 2. How to hold your blade

We suggest keeping the razor at an angle of 30 degrees. If you use to direct of an angle you can rip the stubble rather than cut it. And if kept too steep, it may cut the skin. Keep your grip firm, adjusting every now and again for different parts of the face.

It’s necessary to pull the skin tight with your other hand or by stretching your neck and applying gentle pressure with the blade. This will keep you from cutting your lip. The blade is sharp; it will do what it is meant to do as long as these measures are properly followed.

First strokes straight razor

 3. Getting started

Start at the sideburn, head downward from the top of the cheek close to the ear, take the first strokes down. Rinse the blade in hot water after each stroke and keep taking short strokes.

4. Chin and Lip

Lift the razor slightly as you get close to your chin, and use the middle of the blade. Never start a stroke on a prominent part of your face like the chin or the edge of your jaw.

With simple, steady strokes, you can handle the upper lip as you would the cheeks. To flatten the skin, pull the opposite side of the lip tightly. Leave the middle of the top lip until you slightly tighten the skin by pressing your nose up.

   5. Neck and lower lip

From the corner of your mouth, take the first strokes across the skin to the middle of your chin. Start from the top of the chin and let the razor follow the contours under your lips. 

Around your neck, be careful. Follow the grain of the hair on your neck as well. With brief upward strokes, you can then remove any remaining hair. Keep the strokes steady and small..

  6. Second and third pass

For any missed patches, you will possibly have to make a second run. We recommend shaving across or against the grain during the second round. Re-apply shaving butter or lather after hot water. Don’t start again without shaving butter or lather to protect the skin.  

Sandalwood Hair Pomade
Sandalwood Hair Pomade

7. Moisturize

After shaving, add cold water to the skin to tighten the pores again. Apply skin with a post-shave balm or moisturiser. We recommend Black Magic Organic after shave balm, follow this link to find what you’re after.

8. Storing your razor

Rinse the blade and dry it. Store it some place where the moisture won’t get to it. Black magic blades have a sheath included. You can also apply a drop of beard oil or specialised blade oil to the blade before putting it away. This prevents any moisture in the air rusting the blade, particularly in wet bathrooms.

Thats it. You can officially start shaving with a straight razor, just remember to follow all these tips. If you dont already have them you will need some high quality shaving products to get started. Follow this link to find them.